The unlikely saviors of Pi’ilanihale Heiau, Hawaii’s most impressive ancient site

Chief Kahanu’s Descendants Donate Sacred Pi’ilanihale Heiau

In 1848, Chief Kahanu got a gift from King Kamehameha III: 990 acres of Maui land with Hawaii’s largest temple.

The land soon fell to sugar plantations, then to ranches.

Over time, the Kahanu family lost most of their holdings bit by bit. Yet they held tight to the sacred Pi’ilanihale Heiau.

By 1974, facing tough choices, the family made a bold move. They gave 61 acres with the ancient temple to a botanical garden, which vowed to care for it forever.

The story of this sacred trust now waits for you at Kahanu Garden, where Hawaii’s past and future meet on sacred ground.

King Kamehameha III Gave Chief Kahanu Nearly 1,000 Acres in 1848

King Kamehameha III gave Chief Kahanu Award No. 42 in the Great Mahele of 1848.

This land grant gave Kahanu rights to half of Honoma’ele, about 990 acres in Hana. The property included Pi’ilanihale Heiau, the largest ancient temple in Polynesia.

Kahanu came to Maui from Kauai when Kamehameha united the islands. The Great Mahele tried to protect Hawaiian lands by dividing lands among his people.

Sugar Plantations Quickly Surrounded the Ancient Temple

George Wilfong started the first sugar cane mill in Hana in 1849, just one year after the Kahanu family got their land.

By 1883, six different sugar plantations worked around Pi’ilanihale Heiau.

Hana grew into a busy town with 3,500 people, two movie theaters, 15 stores, three barber shops, a pool hall and several restaurants.

Sugar brought fast changes to the area.

Family Members Sold Their Heritage Piece by Piece

Over the years, Kahanu’s descendants leased and sold parts of their family land to sugar companies and ranches for small amounts of money.

Beautiful oceanfront property slipped away for sums that later family members found embarrassingly low.

Within just 20 years of getting the original 990 acres, much of it went to sugar planters. The remaining land got split into smaller pieces with each new generation.

Hana’s Sugar Industry Collapsed After World War II

The sugar business slowly faded in Hana, with all plantations around Pi’ilanihale Heiau closing by 1946. The last sugar operation in Hana shut down that same year.

Many families moved to plantations on other parts of the island when they couldn’t find work. This collapse left the region with few jobs and many people moved away, leaving behind a quiet area.

A Baseball Team Owner Turned Sugar Fields Into Cattle Ranch

Paul Fagan, who owned the San Francisco Seals baseball team, bought 14,000 acres of former sugar plantation land in 1944.

He turned this land into Hana Ranch, bringing cattle from Molokai to graze on the former cane fields.

Fagan also built the Ka’uiki Inn in 1946 and created an airport to bring tourists to the remote area.

His investments helped bring new life to Hana’s economy.

The Massive Stone Temple Survived Despite Changing Times

Even with decades of cattle grazing and farming around it, Pi’ilanihale Heiau stayed mostly intact.

The huge stone structure got covered with jungle plants but didn’t suffer major damage to its walls or foundation.

Hana Ranch’s ownership provided some protection for the sacred site.

The heiau sat forgotten by most outsiders until the 1960s, hidden as the world changed around it.

The Outside World Finally Noticed the Forgotten Temple

In 1964, Pi’ilanihale Heiau became a National Historic Landmark because of its importance to Hawaiian history.

A newcomer to the area started efforts to get the site noticed, bringing it to the attention of the National Park Service.

This official status highlighted the heiau as the largest ancient temple in Polynesia and one of Hawaii’s most important historic sites.

Courtroom Battles Revealed How Much Land Was Lost

Take Matsuda, who came from Chief Kahanu’s line, spent much of the 1970s and 1980s fighting in state court to prove his Kahanu family ties.

First, family members went to court to claim what little remained of the original 990-acre grant. Then they fought among themselves to divide the small pieces that were left among various branches of the family.

Jungle Plants Threatened to Destroy the Ancient Walls

By the 1970s, Pi’ilanihale Heiau got so overgrown with jungle plants that they started to damage the stone structure.

The tall terraced walls needed repairs to keep them from falling down. Family members realized they couldn’t afford to properly care for the massive ancient temple.

The need for help became urgent as vines and roots pushed stones apart.

The Family Made a Tough Choice to Save Their Heritage

In 1974, members of the Kahanu/Uaiwa/Matsuda/Kumaewa family and Hana Ranch gave 61 acres including the heiau to the Pacific Tropical Botanical Garden (now called National Tropical Botanical Garden).

The garden promised to fix up Pi’ilanihale, open it to visitors, and take care of the sacred site and family graves on the land forever.

An unknown donor also bought another 62 acres next to it, making the protected area 123 acres total.

This agreement made sure experts would care for the site while the family kept their spiritual connection to their ancestors.

Kahanu Garden Now Protects Hawaii’s Largest Temple

The donation created Kahanu Garden, named after Chief Kahanu to honor the family who gave the land.

Garden workers and volunteers took on the huge job of clearing jungle growth and fixing the heiau walls. Today, people can visit the site while respecting its sacred nature.

The family’s decision made sure that Hawaii’s largest heiau will stay protected for future generations while keeping cultural ties to the past.

The garden continues to care for this treasure, preserving both natural and cultural heritage in one special place.

Visiting Piilanihale Heiau, Hawaii

Pi’ilanihale Heiau at 650 Ulaino Road in Hana costs $18 for adults, $10 for Hawaii residents with ID, and free for kids 12 and under.

The access road crosses a stream that might be too deep during heavy rain. You can visit Monday through Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Take a self-guided tour with their pamphlet or book a Friday 9:30am guided tour for $30 by calling 808-248-8912.

This article was created with AI assistance and human editing.

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