Canyon de Chelly, Arizona
Canyon de Chelly had sheltered the Navajo for generations until Kit Carson arrived in 1864.
His troops burned crops, killed livestock, and drove families into the freezing desert. The Long Walk that followed was even more cruel.
What remains today tells a story of survival and loss in a national monument.
The Orders from General Carleton
Brigadier General James Carleton wanted the Navajo removed from their homeland. He chose Kit Carson to finish the job by entering Canyon de Chelly.
Carson had already spent months burning Navajo homes, killing their livestock, and destroying their crops.
Carleton planned to move all captured Navajo to Bosque Redondo, a reservation in New Mexico.
Military leaders thought Canyon de Chelly too dangerous to enter, but Carson accepted the mission anyway.
Carson Prepares His Forces
By January 6, 1864, Carson gathered 389 soldiers from the 1st New Mexico Cavalry. Heavy snow covered the ground and temperatures fell well below freezing.
Carson brought Ute scouts to guide his troops. The Utes knew the land well and had fought the Navajo for generations.
Navajo leaders Barboncito and Manuelito had already faced attacks from both soldiers and Ute raiders. Their people had little food left, and winter made their situation desperate.
The Two-Pronged Canyon Attack
On January 12, Carson split his forces. He led 289 men through the western entrance while Captain Pfeiffer took 100 soldiers into the eastern side.
A snowstorm hit as they started their march. Pfeiffer’s group got lost and ended up in Canyon del Muerto, a northern branch of the main canyon.
Carson moved steadily forward, destroying every empty Navajo home and taking any food his men found. The plan was to trap Navajo families between the two groups of soldiers.
Refuge on Fortress Rock
Many Navajo families climbed to safety on Fortress Rock when soldiers entered the canyon. This massive stone formation stands where Canyon de Chelly meets Canyon del Muerto.
They had prepared for this attack by storing food and supplies on top of the rock. Using wooden ladders made from pine trees, they climbed the steep cliffs then pulled the ladders up behind them.
At night, people formed human chains down the rock face to reach water without being seen by soldiers. About 300 Navajo hid on this natural fortress throughout the campaign.
Few Battles Fought in the Canyon
The military attack saw little actual fighting. On January 12, soldiers killed 11 Navajo near the canyon entrance and captured four others. They also took a herd of sheep and goats.
From cliff positions, Navajo warriors shot arrows at the troops below. The height gave them some protection while they tried to slow the soldiers’ advance.
After months of destruction across their territory, most Navajo were too weak and hungry to organize a strong defense. By January 14, the military operation ended with few casualties on either side.
Destroying the Navajo Livelihood
For sixteen days, soldiers destroyed everything useful in the canyon. They burned hogans (the eight-sided Navajo homes), tore down animal pens, and killed livestock.
Troops ruined water sources by filling them with rocks. They cut down peach trees that had fed Navajo families for generations.
Later that year, Captain Thompson’s men returned to finish the job. They destroyed about 3,000 peach trees and eleven acres of crops. Carson’s goal was clear, make survival impossible so the Navajo would surrender.
The Beginning of Navajo Surrender
On January 16, the first group of 150 starving Navajo gave up. Cold and hungry, they approached the soldiers hoping for food.
The army promised those who surrendered would get food, blankets, and protection at military forts. Delgado, brother of Navajo leader Barboncito, urged others to surrender to survive the winter.
As word spread about the destruction in their sacred canyon, more Navajo lost hope. Many who surrendered thought they would return home when conditions improved.
Carson Withdraws From the Canyon
After completing his mission, Carson set up camp near present-day Chinle, Arizona. From there, he waited for more Navajo to surrender.
He sent Captain Carey through the canyon one last time to make sure no military targets remained. Carey found few Navajo still hiding there.
Carson reported his mission a success despite the limited combat. He returned to Fort Canby with his captives, leaving the canyon mostly empty.
Those Who Refused Capture
Not all Navajo surrendered after the Canyon de Chelly campaign. Chief Manuelito led his people into Hopi lands to avoid capture.
The 300 people hiding on Fortress Rock stayed free. They carefully rationed their stored food and got water under cover of darkness.
Some families fled to places as far as the Grand Canyon and Bears Ears area in Utah.
Without access to their farms and with winter’s grip tightening, many eventually surrendered when facing starvation.
Manuelito himself finally gave up in 1866.
The Long Walk Begins
By summer 1864, nearly 8,000 Navajo had surrendered, the largest surrender of any Native American nation in U.S. history.
The forced march to Bosque Redondo began in early 1864. The journey stretched between 250 and 450 miles, depending on the starting point.
The first large group of 2,400 people left Fort Defiance in March 1864. About 200 died from cold, hunger, and exhaustion along the way.
Some who couldn’t keep pace were shot by soldiers.
Effects of Forced Removal
The Navajo called this journey “Hwéeldi” or “The Long Walk.” Many walked barefoot across frozen ground, their clothes in tatters.
At Bosque Redondo, they found poor soil, bad water, and not enough wood for fires. Disease spread quickly through the crowded conditions. More died during four years at the reservation than on the journey itself.
The government’s plan to turn the Navajo into farmers failed completely. In 1868, officials admitted defeat and signed a treaty allowing the Navajo to return to a portion of their homeland.
Visiting Canyon de Chelly
Canyon de Chelly National Monument is located at PO Box 588, Chinle, AZ 86503.
The monument is open year-round, with the Visitor Center operating daily from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM except on December 25.
Entry to the monument is free. You can drive the North and South Rim Drives on your own to access scenic overlooks.
For canyon floor access, you must book a Navajo guide, with tours starting at $75 per person.
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