Lava Beds National Monument, California
The Modoc War began on November 29, 1872, and ended June 1, 1873. It was the only major Native American war fought in California. Captain Jack, also called Kintpuash, led 53 warriors and about 160 women and children.
The Modocs left the Klamath Reservation in Oregon because they wanted their own land along Lost River in California. This was their ancestral home. The U.S. government sent nearly 1,000 soldiers to force them back to the reservation.
The war became one of the most expensive Indian conflicts in American history.
The Battle of Lost River
On November 29, 1872, Captain James Jackson led 40 soldiers to the Modoc camp on Lost River. He ordered the Modocs to hand over their weapons.
During this tense moment, Lieutenant Boutelle and a warrior named Scarfaced Charley pulled their guns and fired at each other.
Both missed, but this started a fight. One soldier died and seven were wounded. Two Modocs were killed and three were hurt. The Modocs scattered and ran from their camp as the fighting ended.
Retreat to the Lava Beds Stronghold
After the Lost River battle, Captain Jack’s group escaped by canoe across Tule Lake. They headed for the lava beds on the southern shore. Another group led by Hooker Jim went around the east side of the lake.
Along the way, they killed 14 settlers in revenge for the army attack. Captain Jack knew the lava beds would make a good place to defend. The area had 72 square miles of sharp rocks, narrow canyons, and caves formed by ancient volcanoes.
A third Modoc group later joined them.
Natural Defenses of Captain Jack’s Stronghold
The lava beds gave the Modocs perfect protection. The jumbled landscape had countless ridges, cracks, and caves. Modoc warriors could move through hidden passages while spotting enemies from high points.
Tule Lake was on the north side of their stronghold, giving them water. The Modocs knew this land well from hunting here for generations. They made the natural defenses even better by building about 130 rock walls.
Recent studies have found 756 defense spots in the area, including 569 places where warriors could shoot from behind cover.
First Battle of the Stronghold
By mid-January 1873, the army had 400 soldiers near the lava beds. Colonel Frank Wheaton led both regular army troops and volunteers from California and Oregon. On January 17, about 225 soldiers and 104 volunteers attacked in thick fog.
Modoc warriors positioned throughout the lava rocks fought back from all sides. Not one Modoc was hurt, but they killed 35 soldiers and wounded 25 more. The army had to retreat, unable to break through the stronghold’s defenses.
This defeat shocked the U.S. military.
Peace Commission Negotiations
After this defeat, the government formed a Peace Commission to talk with Captain Jack. The group included Alfred Meacham, General Edward Canby, and Reverend Thomas.
Winema Riddle, a Modoc woman and Captain Jack’s cousin, worked as a translator with her husband Frank. She often warned the commissioners they might be in danger. Several meetings took place between February and April 1873.
Captain Jack always asked for land on Lost River. The commission always said no. Meanwhile, more soldiers gathered around the stronghold.
Publisher Printed by Marnell & co.
Division Among the Modocs
As talks went nowhere, the Modocs started arguing among themselves. Captain Jack wanted peace. He hoped to get land for his people without more fighting. Hooker Jim, Schonchin John, and others pushed for war.
They thought killing the peace commissioners would make the Americans leave Modoc territory. These warriors shamed Captain Jack by making him wear women’s clothing at meetings.
This was a deep insult in Modoc culture. The night before a big meeting on April 11, the group voted to kill the commissioners despite Captain Jack’s objections.
Murder of General Canby
On April 11, 1873, Captain Jack, Boston Charley, and other Modocs met with the peace commissioners. Both sides had agreed not to bring weapons, but the Modocs hid guns and knives.
When General Canby refused again to give the Modocs land on Lost River, Captain Jack gave a signal. He pulled out a hidden pistol and shot Canby in the head. General Canby and Reverend Thomas died in the attack.
Others were hurt but escaped. Canby was the only U.S. general killed during the Indian Wars.
Second Battle of the Stronghold
Four days after the killings, Colonel Gillem attacked the stronghold again with more troops. This time, the army focused on cutting off the Modocs’ water. The battle lasted from April 15-17.
Soldiers captured the spring and blocked access to Tule Lake. One officer and six soldiers died, and thirteen were wounded. With no water, the Modocs snuck out through an unguarded crack in the rocks on April 17.
When soldiers entered the stronghold the next day, everyone was gone.
Thomas-Wright Battlefield Ambush
On April 26, Captain Thomas led 66 soldiers and 14 Native American scouts to find the Modocs. While the soldiers stopped for lunch near Hardin Butte, just 22 Modocs led by Scarfaced Charley attacked from hidden spots.
The surprised soldiers ran in panic. Twenty-four soldiers died and 19 were wounded. Only one Modoc was hurt. Scarfaced Charley stopped his warriors from killing the few remaining soldiers, allowing them to escape. This showed mercy even in the midst of war.
Battle of Dry Lake and Surrender
On May 10, the Modocs faced defeat at Dry Lake, also called Sorass Lake. Colonel Jefferson Davis had taken command and changed the army’s approach. Ellen’s Man George, an important Modoc warrior, died in this battle.
The Modocs also lost most of their bullets and supplies when 24 pack animals were captured. After this loss, the Modocs split into different groups. Hooker Jim surrendered and helped track Captain Jack.
After weeks on the run, Captain Jack gave up on June 1, 1873, ending the war.
Visiting Lava Beds National Monument, California
Lava Beds National Monument exists in northeastern California near the Oregon border, about 30 miles south of Klamath Falls. You can find the monument off Highway 139, with the main entrance at 1 Indian Well Headquarters.
The park spans more than 46,000 acres, including Captain Jack’s Stronghold and over 700 lava tube caves. Ranger-led tours run during summer months to popular caves like Crystal Ice Cave, which requires advance reservations.
Read More from WhenInYourState.com:
The post The California lava field where the Modocs defied the U.S. Army for months appeared first on When In Your State.